Over the years, agar found its way around the world into many cuisines, including those of China (where it’s called “unicorn vegetable” or “frozen powder”), France (sometimes called gélose), India (called “China grass”), Indonesia (called agar-agar, which translates simply as “jelly”), Mexico (called dulce de agar, or agar sweets), and the Philippines (known as gulaman).
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• Every time I teach world history, I make a point of showing things like the above to my students and reading them Philip Larkin’s “An Arundel Tomb”:
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